Mynydd Cilan to Abersoch - 5 miles on foot

Tuesday 26 May 2015

As usual with a one day walk in Wales, I took the early train, arriving at Pwllheli at 1205 and took the 18 bus to Mynydd Cilan towards the south west end of  the Lleyn Peninsula.  I arrived at just after 1300 and began my walk, initially through the village of Nant-y-Big (1315) and onwards to the coast path.

Converted chapel at Mynedd Cilan

The day was pleasant, but cloudy with a slight breeze - ideal for walking, really.  The way sloped downwards to the broad sandy beach as I walked accompanied by a number of families with small children equipped with appropriate tools for building sandcastles.

Porth Ceiriad Beach

Soon our routes parted and I continued up the slope where I had excellent views of the beach below and the cliffs ahead towards the headland at Trwyn yr Wylfa (1330).  The undulating path took me past the islands of St Tudwals, where I was delighted to see several dolphins swimming and occasionally leaping out of the water.  These creatures were pursued by groups of tourists in small boats trying to capture the show with there cameras.  I believe my vantage point was both better for viewing and kinder to the dolphins.

St Tudwals Islands

Gorse bushes and Snowdonia

I continued along the coast path past bright orange gorse bushes to the village of Machroes (1420) which boasted several white painted stone cottages and an old boathouse tucked in between the sand and the cliff.  By now, the weather had warmed up and there was some sun.  This appears to have brought out the holidaymakers who were either lazing or cavorting along the stretch of sand all the way to Abersoch (1440).

Machroes boathouse

I had a little time before my bus was due to arrive, so had my usual fish and chips followed by a cornet of local icecream.  It was then time to make my way back to Pwllheli and the train home.

Llanrhystud to Aberaeron - 14 April 2014 - 8 miles on foot

I appear to be slipping into bad habits.  This is my first blog for some time, although I am still continuing to manage about one outing each month.  Thus chastened, I shall try to write up each blog soon after the journey and catch up on all the other trips I have not yet written about.

The early (0630) train from Smethwick Galton Bridge brought me into Aberystwyth on schedule at 0915.  The First number 40 bus departed from opposite the Railway Station and deposited me in Llanrhystud outside the Black Lion Inn at 1000, where I had completed a previous walk (details later).

I spent a few minutes exploring the narrow streets, whitewashed stone cottages and attractive church with a tower before moving on my way.  The weather was cool, but bright and occasionally sunny - perfect for walking.

I walked down the main street and along a narrow lane past sheep and lamb filled fields against a backdrop of gentle wooded hills.  Within 1 mile (1021), I arrived at the grey pebble and shingle beach backed by low cliffs that rose from the end of the lane.

My walk took me along the Wales Coast Path across fields, passing some abandoned stone-built lime kilns.  I soon reached the village of Llansantffraed.  This time, the equally attractive stone church with slate wall hangings had been built with a tower.  After some refreshment, I walked through the village of whitewashed stone cottages and into the neighboring twin village of Llanon  (2.5 miles - 1115).

Llanon, situated on the main road was noisier than and not so tidy as its neighbour.  Outside the village, there was a development of new houses.  To the credit of the developers, they were built in the local style with rendered walls painted in a variety of attractive colours.  The prices looked reasonable too!

Onwards along another lane to the seafront and the uninspiring Hotel Plas Morfa.  The path continued along low earth cliffs an over the occasional streams with stepping stones.  Ahead, the path rose over higher cliffs, but there was always the comforting view of Aberaeron ahead of me and New Quay in the distance.

A pleasant undulating walk and I was descending into the village of Aberarth (6 miles 1231).  The village had sparkling streams and multi-coloured cottage - a very pleasant place to live.

Moving forward, the coast path remained level and I soon reached the caravan site that marked the beginning of Aberaeron, my destination.  (8miles - 1317).  I spent some time rediscovering this town since my last visit in 2010.  Aberaeron is famous for its harbour and multi-coloured houses.

All too soon it was time to catch Richards X50 bus to Aberystwyth, a meal at the station (Wetherspoons) and the 1730 train back to Birmingham.  All in all, an excellent day out.

Ramsgate to Margate on foot - 2 February 2013

My original plan for the day was a walk over the White Cliffs from Dover to Deal.  However, the forecast of very strong winds for the day would have meant a far less than agreeable walk, to say nothing of safety.  I modified my plan to walk a stretch of the coastline I had already covered on the venerable bike.

Leaving Coventry at 6:51, the train was early (7:50) into Euston.  A brisk walk over to St Pancras and I was on board the 8:14, arriving at Dover by 9:20.  (Not bad for less than £8).  My change of plan meant a short wait in Dover before my train arrived to take me to  Ramsgate, where I duly arrived at 1040.

Ramsgate Station is about a mile away from the seafront which made for dreary walking past row upon row of dreary terraced housing.  At some time in the past these houses would nave looked alike, making for a harmonious whole, but in the interest of individuality, cheap renovations and extensions have made the place look a mess.  As I approached the seafront, things looked up and I came across more attractive level of architecture.

On reaching the seafront, there were a number of large and attractive hotels and a delightful square of coastguard cottages.  The view over the beach and towards the harbour to my right were excellent. On the downside, the strong wing made its presence felt in comparison to the sheltered narrow streets.

Onward then along the promenade and through Winterstoke Gardens, (A broad swathe of grass with a mock Grecian pavillion and into King George VI Memorial Park (An even broader swathe of grass with trees).

Dumpton arrived with some interesting architecture and the English terminal of the cross Channel telephone link.  The building looks diminutive and old, but I am informed that it remains in service as a fibre optic connection with Belgium.

Broadstairs is a splendid unspoiled place with many ancient buildings blending in well with the Victorian.  It has an air of calm superiority about it and is a place I intend to return to when I have completed the coastal journey.

Walking out of Broadstairs along the the beach, I passed a yellow door in front of a cave in the cliff.  The sign on the door read "Bay Inspector's Office" and the company "Thanet Leisure Force".  My only thought was "To Hell with the standard of office accommodation, I appear to have missed my vocation somewhere along the line!"

I climbed the steps up the cliff to the road and a little further on entered the North Foreland Private Estate.  Despite the OS map showing the route of the footpath along the busy road, it is more pleasant to walk through the estate past large and expensive houses and there are no indications to the contrary.

Emerging from the Estate, I rejoined the cliff top path and walked past the impressive looking Kingsgate Castle, now converted into apartments.  Turning east by the small fort at White Ness, I was greeted by a windy blast which slowed my progress for the remainder of the journey.

The grassy strip between Cliftonville and the sea would have been a pleasant walk on almost any other day, but I pushed on through the wind into Margate, a town which has clearly seen better days.  Many of the buildings appeared to be in poor condition and seemingly little progress was in evidence to restore this resort to its former glory.  Wandering around the town, I was impressed by the railway station and little else.

A meal and a pint at Wetherspoons was followed by a bus journey back to Ramsgate and the train home.

Battlesbridge to Burnham on Crouch - 17 November 2012 - 14 miles by bike

Photographs

This part of my journey around the coast has annoyed for some time.  My ideal route would have been to take the Lady Essex Ferry between Burnham on Crouch and Wallasea.  Although it is clearly marked on the OS map, it is never running when I have made inquiries in the past.  After some deliberation, I decided to close this gap in my itinerary by cycling the 14 miles from Battlesbridge to Burnham on Crouch.

Battlesbridge Station

An 6 am start on the Virgin Voyager out of Birmingham International brought me to Euston at 7:16 and, after a short journey on the Circle Line, I was seated on my train at Liverpool Street in good time for its departure at 8:02.  Changing at Wickford, I was ready to leave Monsieur Bataille's bridge at 9:10.

Hawk Inn - Battlesbridge

The weather was dull and threatening as I cycled past The Hawk Inn and the white clapperboard houses of Battlesbridge.  The rolling countryside would have been so much more attractive with a little sun, so I pushed on to South Woodham Ferrers (0935 - 3.3 miles).  Possibly an interesting village at some time in the past, South Woodham Ferrers has seen great expansion to become a town containing a few old buildings, some excellent modern ones and some large, boring housing estates.

South Woodham Ferrers

I moved on quickly along the Crouch Valley and, since I had plenty of time, took a detour into North Fambridge (1010 - 6.9 miles).  This is an attractive place with many well maintained white clapperboard houses and some larger, more substantial properties.  I admired and photographed the Victorian Church, peered at North Fambridge Hall through the fairly dense vegetation and cycled back to the B1012.

North Fambridge

Althorne (1055 - 10.1 miles) seems to go on for ever along the B1010, but contains a fine stone built church with a tower and a number of imposing, large houses.

Althorne

By now, the sky was becoming more and more overcast, so I hurried on to Burnham on Crouch (1130 - 14.3 miles) which I reached as the heavens opened.  I quickly made my way to the White Hart on the waterfront where I enjoyed a well earned pint and an excellent plate of steak and mushroom pie.

White Hart - Burnham on Crouch

Thus refreshed and with the weather improved, I then had the opportunity of exploring the largely unspoiled town with solid Victorian brick buildings interspersed with white clapperboard.  My curiosity satisfied, I made my to the railway station and a retrace of the morning's journey, arriving back at Birmingham International by 1813.

Photographs

Seaburn to South Shields - 27 October 2012 - 8 Miles on foot

Click to see the pictures

An early rise and a drive through the dark early morning and I was at Tamworth Station in good time to catch the 0646 to Newcastle.  The train was quiet and the journey uneventful apart from chatting to some fellow travellers who were headed for a shopping trip in York.  I shuddered at their adventure for the day just as much as I am sure they shuddered at mine.  The train was punctual into Newcastle and I quickly made my way into the Metro system for the next part of my journey.

The fare system on the Metro system is the most impenetrable anywhere I have come across, there are no ticket offices, the ticket machines do not give change and it is the hardest thing in the world to buy the correct ticket unless aided by an expert.  Fortunately, help was at hand in the form of a station assistant who took pity on me, advised on the best ticket and personally dispensed change as the change machine was broken.  On the journey, I discovered the necessity of buying the right ticket when two ticket inspectors boarded my carriage at an intermediate stop and shouted, "tickets ready for inspection".  They rapidly progressed through the train until they came across one man who did not have a ticket.  He was dragged off at the next stop to await a fate I can only imagine!

Having walked the dreary mile between the seafront and Seaburn Station on a previous occasion, I decided to give it a miss and caught the bus instead, arriving at Seaburn Lighthouse at 1050.

Roker Lighthouse from Seaburn

On arrival at the seafront, I was greeted with some light hail and a fresh wind that blew from the direction in which I was to travel.  The sea was choppy and the sun shone for most of the time, making for some atmospheric pictures.  Having donned my warm hat and gloves I set off northwards along the well maintained coast path.  The path ran parallel to the road, but a respectful distance apart for almost the whole of the walk.  There were a number of other people around, mainly dog walkers and a few other lost souls.

Lost souls?

Whitburn (1135 - 1.5 miles) is a post war housing development over which towers what appears to be a working windmill complete with sails.  From here the route crosses broad grassy meadows along low cliffs with many stacks and sea arches standing above the shallow water.  The way passed some, apparently and hopefully, disused shooting ranges to Souter Lighthouse (1206 - 3.1 miles).  Here I took a rare opportunity, on my coast walks, to visit a National Trust property, Souter Lighthouse.

Souter Lighthouse

Souter Lighthouse has the distinction of being the first in the country to be powered by electricity.  Following a general description of the functions of the stand-by generator and the compressors required to power the massive fog horns, I made my way to the simple two up - two down accommodation for a lighthouse keeper and his family.  These rooms were furnished with period furniture and contained appropriate nautical touches in the pictures on the walls and clothing displayed in the bedrooms.  A short climb up the tower and I was back into the cold for the final part of my walk.

Marsden Lime Kilns

In the mid 1800's, a large village was built in the area around the lighthouse to house the workers at the nearby limestone quarry and lime kilns.  In the 1960's, all of the building were torn down and all that now remains is a broad stretch of grass and the ruins of the lime kilns.  The route now remained close to the road until, at Marsden (1250 - 4.1 miles), the green area broadened out again into "The Leas" and the path meandered along the coast and past the massive Marsden Rock.  The rock was, until recently, a large sea arch and it is a mere shadow of its former self.  For some reason, Marsden Rock is a favourite spot for people in the area to commit suicide, as evidenced by the enticing adverts from the Samaritans.

Marsden Rock

The path now descended to the sand strewn promenade that led towards the mouth of the Tyne, past the obligatory amusement park doing meagre business with the brave souls who had taken the trouble to brave the elements.  Having reached the Tyne (1355 - 7.1 miles), the were a few delights to amuse me - dancing lady sculptures, moored fishing boats and some tasteful waterside apartment developments - before arriving in South Shields (1420 - 8.4 miles) which could be almost anywhere in the UK.

Colmans Fish and Chips

Colmans Restaurant came highly recommended and they did not disappoint. The fish and chips were beautifully cooked and service was both friendly and efficient.  I grabbed a coffee in the local Wetherspoons pub (so I could say I had been there!) before catching the Metro back to Newcastle.  I tried and failed to talk myself onto an earlier train than the one I was booked on, so took myself to a nearby pub and enjoyed a slow pint before boarding the 1835.  Despite delays, I managed to make my connection ay Derby and was home for 2230.

Next trip (and last this year) - 17 November - Battesbridge to Burnham on Crouch - 14 miles by bike

Filey to Bridlington (18 miles) and Bridlington to Hornsea (13 miles) - Summer 2000

See the pictures

Yet another retrospective blog as I wait to travel to the North East on 27 October.  Again the recollection is a little sketchy, but the route and the main points of interest are still clear in my mind.

I travelled by train to Filey, changing at York and Seamer.  The journey was uneventful except for a rather choppy ride on a Pacer multiple unit between York and Seamer.  On arrival at Filey, I spent a few minutes revisiting some of the places I knew as a child when we came here as a family almost every year during the 1940's and early 50's. The most significant of these was the miniature golf course, the scene of my most serious misdemeanour at the tender age of seven.  Since I was not deemed old enough to play by may parents. I was given the job of "caddy" which didn't please me one little bit.  When the rest of the family had tee'd off, I would hang behind and "modify" the course by pointing the marker arrow to a different hole.  This seemed to go fine until we strarted to hear arguments behind us as the modified course had its effect and the family was forced to retreat from the course without finishing the round!

Crime scene

Fortunately nobody recognised my from that occasion, so I was soon walking along the sands towards Flamborough Head.  On my way, I passed the now ruined remains of the Butlin's Holiday Camp which used to disgorge holidaymakers into the town pedalling garishly painted tricycles.  At the end of the beach as the limestone Flamborough Cliffs started there was a flight of steep steps cut into the rock / earth which led to the cliff top path.  The steps may or may not still be there - please check first!

Flamborough Head from Filey

There followed a very enjoyable cliff top walk around the edge of Flamborough Head.  At the very high Bempton Cliffs, I could see all kinds of seabirds wheeling around, taking off and landing on their precarious nests.  I then passed the ancient Danes Dyke. walked high above the tiny harbour at North Landing and arrived at the lighthouse and radio installations at Flamborough head itself.

Bempton Cliffs

The walk took me around the cliff past South Landing and the other end of Danes Dyke.  Finally, there was a gentle descent past Sewerby Hall and into Bridlington.  I made my way to my B&B for the night and turned in after a supper of fish and chips eaten by the harbourside.

Bridlington Harbour

The next day, I set off along the sands early after breakfast, passing a small group of beach campers.  The whole of this part of the trip was along the sands, except for the occasional excursion to overcome the monotony of seeing low, almost unbroken  earth cliffs to my right, with the calm sea to my left.  I passed Ulrome, the scene of many holidays in the 1940's the caravan site where we stayed seemed much smaller than before, due to cliff erosion.

Ulrome

Eventually, after a long beach walk, I arrived at Hornsea and caught a bus back to Bridlington, followed by the train home.

Folkestone to Dover - 29 September 2012 - 8 Miles on foot

I had previously cycled between Folkestone and Dover in 2009 but felt I could gain more by repeating the the journey on foot by tracing the Saxon Shore Way which ran close to the cliff edge offering views of the sea and the prospect of visiting defensive sites from WW2.  Virgin Trains were offering return tickets for £16 so I needed no more persuasion to embark on this, my latest adventure.

The Leas

The journey to Folkestone was swift and efficient.  I left Birmingham International at 6:40 in the morning, dashed from Euston to St Pancras and caught the high speed "Javelin" train, arriving in Folkestone at 9:15.  From the station, I made straight for the broad stretch of green at the top of the cliff known as "The Leas".  It was cool, but the sun was shining, as it did throughout my walk.

Railway arch to the harbour

A short meander around the old streets of the upper town, listening to the sound of the bells of St Mary and St Eanswythe and I passed under the low railway bridge that once served the boat-train service, now long gone.  I passed under the bridge to the Quay (0945 - 1 mile), lined with attractive buildings but not at all commercialised.  The only concession to the tourists was a seafood stall.  The large harbour itself was empty except for a few leisure craft riding at anchor.

Copt Point

Moving along the Quay, the headland of Copt Point came into view which was the target of the next part of the walk - or rather the Martello tower that stands above the point.  A pleasant walk along the sunny promenade, up a few flights of steps, a walk along a green expanse and I reached the aforesaid tower, white painted with some signs of graffiti.  Near the tower was a sign informing me that I was standing on the remains of a Roman villa, much of which has now been lost to the sea.

Villa below!

As I climbed, I gained extensive views of both Folkestone to the west and the coastline towards Abbot's Cliff on my intended route.  At the top of Dover Hill, a footpath diversion took me away from the edge of the cliff and along the Old Dover Road until I came to the Battle of Britain Memorial at Capel le Ferne (1050 - 3 miles).  I took a few minutes to admire and photograph the Spitfire and Hurricane aircraft and the memorial itself, before moving on along the cliff top path.

Hurricane at Capel Ferne

After a few yards, a steep downward slope followed by an equally steep climb took me past some houses and back onto the "Old Dover Road" - a quieter section, this time.  The road soon gave way to hill top path again and I climbed my way up to the top of Abbots Cliff (1130 - 4.4 Miles).  Here the remains of World War 2 were much in evidence - gun emplacements, an acoustic mirror, a shooting range and various other emplacements.

Acoustic Mirror

A feature of this walk was the presence of a number of natural "tunnels" over the path formed from gorse and forms of undergowths.  They were dome shaped and blocked out much of the light as one progressed through them.  Below me now was the expanse of Samphire Hoe which appeared to be an unhappy compromise between a nature reserve and a BMX track.  It was constructed from the rock dug from the Channel Tunnel - I suppose they had to put the stuff somewhere!

Samphire Hoe

I was now climbing Shakespeare Cliff and gaining better and better views of both Dover and France as I neared the top (1230 - 6.4 miles).  I could see the coast of France in the distance, slightly blurred by haze and ahead of me, the Channel ferries were busily moving in and out of the harbour.  The descent from Shakespeare Cliff was a little slippery and I had to assemble my walking pole for this part.  The originally planned route was to walk into Dover across the A20 and by Drop Redoubt Fort, but I was surprised to see a path unmarked on the map leading more directly towards Dover Harbour.

The Grand Shaft

Despite missing one fort, I did pass another (Archcliffe Fort) and The Grand Shaft designed to expedite the movement of soldiers to the harbour during the Napoleonic Wars, should they be needed.  Almost in no time, I found myself at journeys end at the waterfront (1315 - 8.2 Miles).  I had time to rest and photograph the harbour before walking into the town.

Dover Harbour

It quickly became obvious, as I explored the town, that Charles Dickens had stayed in Dover and that scenes from David Copperfield and Bleak House were set in the town.  Finally, a meal and a pint at the Eight Bells fortified me for the journey home and I boarded the 1544 train at Dover, arriving home soon after seven.  All in all, an excellent day out for £25!

Next TripSaturday 27 October - Seaburn to South Shields